Orcas Across Borders

Orcas Across Borders

The Puget Sound is a natural beauty, it’s shoreline adorned with unique wildlife and foliage to delight one’s eyes. A naturalists paradise, there are over 1000 square miles to explore. We have only just begun.

Recently, we were given another opportunity to see more of this wondrous water. Nicole found us two tickets for a whale watching tour, via Island Adventures.  We soon found ourselves in Anacortes, at the break of dawn, seeking out our first way point. We made quick stop at the ATM, shook greeters hands’ and signed some papers at their gift shop/store front, and then found ourselves at a pier looking for their boat. The vessel we found was quite the sight. A huge catamaran, a new addition to their fleet, was our ride for the day. Before we boarded, we spent a half hour watching a lively river otter scooping up prey below the surface. It was darting through the water, invisible to the naked eye but able to be followed by the string of bubbles it left in its wake as it chased fish.

river otter looking at cameraGive us a smile lil fella

river otter eating fishAwe yeah, striking a pose

More and more people began showing up, all of us gathering around to watch this wonder of nature take place. This otter was gorging himself on fish, and we all could not get enough of the spectacle.

Eventually, an announcement was made that we would begin checking in to the boat. Our eyes drawn away from the water, we saw that there was almost 80 people around us waiting in line. The huge catamaran seemed like it would be getting a bit snug with all the people. Once we boarded and settled into place though, we found that there was plenty of room for everyone. The boat had 3 large decks, indoor seating, a few flatscreens that were used to display pictures from previous trips and current information on our voyage, and even a small cafe.

river otter swimming

Our otter friend, agape at the impressive boat

The crew started us on our way quickly. We were introduced to the captain, a naturalist, and a few cafe workers. Not 5 minutes into our journey, the naturalist pointed out a turkey vulture’s nest with a chick in it. It was a bit hard to see at first, but was quite interesting to see. Also, it gave us high hopes that luck was on our side for the day if we had already seen so much wildlife.

There were also large ships ferrying containers and raw materials to the various ports. I adore seeing these behemoths moving through the water. It gives me a strange sense of pride that humans could design such things, as well as peaking my curiosity as to what life is like for those who man the ships. Coincidentally, there was another patron on the boat who gave me some insight. He is a retired production manager for Shell, and he told me all about the demands of those crews, as well as their different facilities across the globe. It was quite interesting, for a time, but I eventually had to shake him so that I could focus on more natural wonders.

Reunited with my lovely wife, we sat down facing the wake of the boat as the captain and naturalist took turns pointing out interesting sights over the intercom. The Sound is dotted with small islands and outcroppings for wildlife to find shelter from the water and the cold. Therefore, the naturalist had plenty of visual aids to help with our lesson on how seals spend their days in the area.

harbor seals looking at camera from rock san juan islands washington puget sound

bird flying over island in puget sound

Eagles were setting out for their daily activities as well. There may be a day when the sight of these majestic creatures gliding through the sky no longer makes me pause in awe, but it was not this day. The authority and ease with which they beat their wings, every motion powerful, never fails to amaze me.

bald eagle in treeJust keep doing your thing, my fine feathered friend

island on puget sound washington, pacific north westAs we continued on, the tone of the trip started to change. Our two narrators started to talk less, and with more urgency.

“If anyone sees something that looks like a whale, be sure to point it out”

“So, here are some things to look for…make sure to keep an eye out everywhere, including behind us”

“Hey, so…we have reports of whales up ahead…but here is the thing…”

The “thing” was that the whales up ahead were FAR up ahead. Beyond the Canadian border up ahead. So, we all did what we could to find some sign, ANY sign of whale activity. Honestly though, Nicole and I were having such a blast sipping on endless portions of cider and hot chocolate that the urgency just was not there. All of this was so beautiful. We were cozy in our seats, contented to watch islands be passed.

puget sound harbor sealsLike this one

lighthouse on island in puget sound washington, pacific northwestand this one

On and on we went. Finally, an announcement was made.

“Alright everyone, we are striking out at getting any report of whales any closer to us. It looks like we are going to have to head to Canada. This vessel has never done this before, and it would be dishonest of me not to admit that I look forward to being the one to do it first”

I like this captain.

Onto Canada we went. We learned about how the border between the USA and Canada was determined, and what an ordeal it is for school children in Point Roberts to travel back and forth from school. They have to cross the Canadian border to get part of the way, and enter back into America. This happens twice a day. Quite the journey.

Fun fact: you cannot make transactions in Canada without paying their taxes. So, even though we were on an American vessel, we had to wait until we entered back into American waters before any purchases could be registered at the cafe.

All of a sudden we started to see small boats in the distance. They were obviously circling around something. As we approached, we towered over all of the other boats and had a clear view of the attraction. Three pods of Orca whales were playing around on the surface. There are two types of Orcas in the area: fish eating and seal eating. We were warned that the seal eating variety can be quite graphic in their methods of capturing their prey. Fortunately, the whales we came upon were the fish eating variety. So, we learned all about how they dive for the salmon, as well as what the different surface displays signified.

Orcas are matriarchal. The males leave the pod for a period of time to mate, then return to their mother. Therefore, one of the most feared and powerful animals in the entire world…still needs his mommy. Just some food for thought.

Friends forever

whale watching orca in british columbia, canadaAs another aside, we definitely made the right choice when it came to tour guides. While other vessels were bobbing around on the rough water, we were lounging in style. Steady on our big catamaran, we had a bird’s eye view of all of the pods around us. Plus, our ride was quiet, steady, and sheltered. The huddled groups in other boats did not look comfortable.

The various whales kept diving down and popping up all around us. These animals were not shy. Some seemed focus on getting food, while the younger ones were somewhere between learning how to hunt and having fun playing with their family.

The naturalist also explained to us that there has been a shift in the ratio of seal eating to salmon eating orcas. Basically, shifts in water temperature, as well as human impact in the Puget Sound is influencing return rates of salmon. It was an unfortunate bit of information, but something that needs to be brought to light sooner rather than later if we are to reverse our negative impact. orca tail, pacific northwest british columbia Canada whale watchingAfter a good 20 minutes of marveling over whales in foreign waters, we had to make our way back. Another tour group was waiting at the pier for their turn to board this boat and set out in search of wildlife. Our trip back was quick. Pictures captured by the crew filled the flat screens, and we enjoyed the warmth of the ships interior as we cruised steadily towards home. There was even an opportunity for a rejuvenating nap as the engine droned below us.

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